Situated along the northern part of the Sea of Cortez, San Felipe is a small fishing village that has grown into a popular spot for expats and tourists. Just 2.5 hours from the U.S. border, San Felipe is within reach for weekend travelers coming to enjoy the relaxed Baja lifestyle. Fish tacos, sunrises over the Sea of Cortez, and prolific fishing trips are the way of life in San Felipe. Many things in downtown San Felipe are within walking distance as most of the action centers around the malecón and surrounding streets. San Felipe is a casual town, and although there are a few bars and clubs along the malecón, it doesn’t offer any of the glitz or glamour that some of the larger cities in Baja do.
Fishing is a draw for the region and, therefore, so is the seafood. Northern Baja is the original home of the fish taco, with Ensenada and San Felipe in a constant argument over which was its true birthplace. In addition to fish, San Felipe is known for its shrimp. During shrimp season, you can buy large fresh shrimp at very affordable prices. The annual shrimp festival in the fall is one of the town’s main attractions. Clams are another regional draw, showing up on many menus, and visitors can go clamming on the beach.
October through June is the best time to visit San Felipe. Time to plan your trip!
Four-Day Itinerary:
Day 1
2 hours (125 miles) driving
Cross the U.S./Mexico border in Mexicali and drive the two hours down Highway Mexico 5 to arrive at the fishing village of San Felipe. Enjoy some fish tacos at Taqueria y Mariscos Adriana (rumored to be the taco stand that inspired the famous Rubio’s chain in the U.S). Walk along the malecón to enjoy the bustle of the beach and the town. At the south end of the malecón, climb up the Shrine of the Virgin Guadalupe lookout to get sweeping views of the bay and town. Have dinner at the Taco Factory or the adjoining Bajamar Seafood and Steak House.
Day 2
Arrange with one of the local pangueros to spend a day fishing out at Isla Konsag (“The Rock”). Those who don’t enjoy angling will still have fun checking out the sealife like sea lions and marine birds. Enjoy a seafood dinner at Mariscos La Vaquita. Be sure to order some of San Felipe’s famous shrimp.
Day 3
3 hours (120 miles) driving
Get an early start for a day trip and drive south on Highway Mexico 5 to take your photo with the impressively enormous cardón cacti in the Valle de los Gigantes. Then continue south to check out the picturesque Bahía San Luis Gonzaga where you can have a beer on the deck at Alfonsina’s to enjoy the beautiful views of the peaceful bay.
Day 4
2 hours (125 miles) driving
Drive north up Highway Mexico 5 to the border town of Mexicali. Spend the afternoon checking out the city’s excellent craft beer scene at places like Cerveza Urbana, Cervecería Legion, or Cerveza Fauna. Cross back over the Mexicali border back to the United States.
Where to Stay in San Felipe:
Hacienda Don Jesus
With colorful hacienda-style architecture, Hacienda Don Jesus (tel. 686-577-0080, www.donjesus.com) has 31 rooms just one block off the malecón. Rooms are clean and comfortable with cable television, wireless Internet, air-conditioning, and toiletries. Kids will love the pool area, and there’s a large secure parking lot.
Las Palmas
Hacienda-style Las Palmas (tel. 686/577-1333, www.laspalmasanfelipe.com) with small but comfortable and clean rooms. There’s a basic pool and a restaurant called Alfredo’s on-site. The hotel is up a hill, but within walking distance to town and the beach.
Casa la Vida
Some of the best accommodations in San Felipe, the vacation suites at Casa la Vida (tel. 686-577-2807, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/334-3345, www.casalavida.com) all have ocean views and are nicely appointed. The owners, two expats, are welcoming and accommodating and will help you out with recommendations on what to do while in town. It’s a clean, friendly, and relaxing atmosphere with a lovely swimming pool.
Kiki’s RV Camping & Hotel
Kiki’s (tel. 686/577-2021, www.kiki.com.mx) is right on the beach and has space for RVs up to 29 feet. Spaces offer 30-amp outlets, sewer, and water. There are also a few hotel rooms available that start at US$65 a night. For peak season and weekends, it’s best to make a reservation in advance.